How To Take Care of Your Lawn – Ultimate Overview For You

There are these types of grass

The different types of lawn don’t just look different. Your stalks can meet different requirements. So that you can enjoy your lawn for a long time, you should know what types of lawn you need – even before you put it on. Above all, ask yourself how resilient your lawn should be and how much time you want to invest in lawn care.

We help you to find the right lawn for your garden:

Lawn type Resilience Care requirements Frequency of cuts
Sports and game turf high medium 1 cut every 1-2 weeks
Ornamental lawn low high 1–2 cuts per week
Shadow lawn medium medium 1 cut per week
Dry grass medium to high medium 1 cut every 2-3 weeks

Lawn Playing

Sowing lawns or laying turf?

Are you wondering whether you should sow your lawn yourself or use turf? There is no clear answer to this question. Both variants have advantages and disadvantages:

Advantages: Disadvantage:
Self-sowing lawn
  • Low costs even with high quality seeds.
  • You can put your seeds together individually – especially for your garden.
  • Even distribution of the lawn seeds by hand is demanding.
  • Sown lawn takes around a month to cut. He cannot be entered for that long. After that, you can only enter it carefully for a few weeks, but not burden it.
  • You can use your lawn quickly, after about 3 weeks the lawn is resilient.
  • Thanks to the dense turf, there is hardly any weed in the first few years.
  • Rolled turf has high acquisition costs, possibly transportation costs are added.


Pay attention to the correct lawn care

Whether newly sown lawn or turf: both variants need the right lawn care. Irrigation in the beginning is particularly important! The new lawn must be kept evenly moist for the first 3–4 weeks!

Water the lawn by directing the water jet upward so that the water rains from above – like a light summer rain. In this way, the new lawn seeds are not washed away in an uncontrolled manner and the water is at the right temperature because it warms up a little in the air.

Mow the lawn, but right

If you mow properly, you will have more of your lawn for longer. Nothing can harm a lawn more than mowing too late.

If you wait too long to mow the lawn, you have a problem: fast-growing weed varieties are spreading more and more. They need space and displace your lawn plants. Mowing the lawn is usually the first step of the year when it comes to lawn care.

So rather mow more often than not enough. How often depends on the growth rate of the lawn:


  • In the main growing season from May to June, it is best to mow twice a week.
  • In the other months, it is enough to unpack the lawn mower once a week. From November to around the end of February you don’t have to mow at all.

Mowing the Lawn

Rules for the correct cutting height of the lawn

  • The cutting height should be between 4 and 6 cm.
  • When the lawn has grown 4 to 5 cm after mowing, you should start again.
  • You can cut ornamental turf a little shorter; depending on the nature of the soil, it may be 2.5 to 4 cm short.
  • During heat and dry periods, it is best to set the cutting height on the lawn mower about 1.5 cm higher than usual. This will prevent the lawn from drying out.
  • If you haven’t mowed, don’t make the mistake of cutting the lawn back to normal height immediately. That harms him. Never cut grass back by more than half the grass height! Better mow again after a few days.
  • For the lawn, it is best if you always work with the same cutting height.
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Tips about the lawn mower

  • Lawnmowers with rear discharge and attached container can be pushed or pulled while mowing.
  • Select the cutting height so that the air flow in the housing can easily transport the crop into the container. If the cutting height is set too low, the air vortex is too low so that the container is not filled correctly or the housing clogs.
  • While you are mowing, the ventilation slots in the container can become blocked. This reduces the air outlet and the degree of filling of the container decreases.
  • Therefore, clean the container after every mowing.


Mulching the lawn: the alternative to mowing

You’ve heard mulching, but can’t imagine anything about it? In the end, the lawn cut remains on the cultivated area when mowing the lawn.

The advantage: the shredded blades of grass fall to the ground over time. Earthworms, microorganisms and beetles work hard to create humus. So you have little helpers with lawn care.

Mowing the Lawn 2

When mulching your lawn, you kill two birds with one stone. Your lawn is nice and short again and the soil gets back valuable nutrients – so you usually have to fertilize less.

There are a few points to note when mowing the lawn:

  • A normal lawnmower is not suitable for mulching. Pick up a mulching mower or lawn mower with mulching function. Why? A lawnmower spits out large pieces, a mulching mower also shreds the clippings. A robotic lawnmower is also ideal for mulching.
  • Only mulch your lawn when it is dry. Wet clippings clumped together.
  • You have to mulch regularly. During the main growing season, consistently twice a week.


Lawn fertilizer for lush green lawns

Every year around March – depending on the weather – you can do something good for your lawn with a load of fertilizer. Lawn fertilizer not only ensures that your lawn becomes more resistant, but also stays lush green and less moss is created. Accordingly, fertilizing is an important component of your lawn care routine.

We have put together a clear overview of what types of fertilizer there are, how and how often you best fertilize your lawn and what order you have to observe when fertilizing.

A lawn also needs to be ventilated

Your lawn is also happy about a swing of fresh air. This works by scarifying your green space.

Scarifying is a very controversial point in lawn care. You can find out whether you need to scarify your lawn with a simple trick: take a metal rake and pull it loosely through the grass. Do moss cushions stick to the tines? Do you have a lot of weeds in the lawn? Then scarifying is a good idea.

How scarifying works, how to find the right scarifier and how to scarify your lawn properly – we have all the information for you!


Lime the lawn

You have mowed and scarified your lawn. The next step in lawn care can be liming the lawn. Can, but does not have to. It depends on the pH of the soil.

If the pH of your lawn is between 5.5 and 6, you can lean back and relax: your soil is currently optimally cared for. If the pH is below this, it makes sense to limescale the lawn. Warning: clover and nettles are usually a sign of an alkaline soil – the pH value is too high, you should under no circumstances limescale.

You see, lime is not always the right choice for your floor. Check first before you bravely pick up a round of lime.

Tip: soil test for pH

You can easily determine the lime requirement of your soil yourself with a soil test. As a rule, it is sufficient to limescale the lawn every three to four years. But here too the soil test brings clarity.

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This is how you limescale your lawn

As soon as you have determined the need for your green space and the amount of lime, the lawn care goes into the next round. You should note this when liming:


  • Wear gloves when spreading the lime. As with fertilization, you can use a spreader. Then it gets nice and even.
  • Then water the lawn well. So a gust of wind cannot destroy all your work and the nutrients seep directly into the ground.
  • Now very important: leave your lawn alone for the next 4 weeks. This is the only way your lush green can absorb the lime in a relaxed manner.


Water the lawn properly

Water is the be-all and end-all for a healthy and beautiful lawn. But you probably have little desire to water your entire lawn with the watering can. And best of all twice a day. Lawn irrigation is the most time-consuming factor in lawn care, especially in summer.

Rule of thumb: If your footprint remains visible on the lawn, you should use the garden hose! Because then the water content is no longer sufficient to raise the individual blades of grass again.

Repairing the lawn: first aid for the green

Your lawn only vegetates pale green? The weeds have seized power? It’s time to give your lawn first aid. Here is an overview of how you can repair your lawn.

General causes

Lightened, yellow or bald spots in the lawn often have general causes that can be related to location, soil conditions or lighting conditions.

root cause measure
Lack of nutrients (yellow stalk tips, pale green lawn, weed growth) Fertilize the lawn (liquid fertilizer and slow-release fertilizer) or correct the pH if necessary (after a previous check)
Lack of light Add special shade lawn; in the case of very strong shading or high root pressure either remove shade, such as trees, or remember alternative planting or ground cover
Waterlogging and / or damp surfaces Increase water permeability (e.g. create drainage or loosen soil, scarify, sand)
Dried up lawn Do not cut lawn too short, add dry lawn; Always grow evergreen in very dry places with high root pressure (e.g. under spruce)

Remove lawn diseases

If your lawn has symptoms that are not due to general causes, it could also be a lawn disease.

Don’t panic – with the right measures you can get your lawn back healthy.


What to do with weeds and moss in the lawn?

Moss and weeds like to jostle between the lawn plants. But with weed and moss killers you can get your lawn back under control:

  • Simply apply weed and moss killer in the specified dosage.

 Attention: Use only selective weed killers and follow the instructions for use!

  • Then remove the browned moss or dead weed with a rake.
  • It is best to fertilize at the same time or use a combined lawn fertilizer plus weed killer.
  • To prevent further weed and moss growth, it is best to take good care of it: water it regularly and fertilize it, do not cut the lawn too short (not less than 4 cm), scarify in spring.
  • The cause of the moss can be identified and, if necessary, eliminated by means of a soil analysis and a check of the local conditions. If the pH values ​​are too low, liming is recommended.
  • Mosses feel particularly comfortable in shady locations. It is therefore advisable to use special shade grass mixtures in shady areas.
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What to do with weeds and moss in the lawn?


How do I get rid of witch rings?

Description: 2–5 cm large mushrooms on the lawn, which are arranged in a ring and form a waterproof mushroom network (mycelium) in the ground. The lawn in the area of ​​the mushrooms has sometimes already died.

Occurrence: Often in nutrient-poor, sandy or compacted soils where soil life is lacking and in matted lawn.

Control: Depending on the intensity of the occurrence, different measures are necessary.

  • Easy occurrence: Immediate nitrogen-based fertilization (liquid and slow-release fertilizers), improve soil structure by activating soil life to accelerate humus formation and remove soil compaction.
  • Medium occurrence: perform deep loosening, the mycelium must be penetrated as deep as possible and all measures recommended for light occurrence.
  • Strong appearance: deep lawn removal and new planting.

How do I get rid of witch rings?

How do I fight algae in the lawn?

Description: Black blue-green algae coating between the grasses.

Occurrence: Especially in mild winters due to prolonged damp weather and mild temperatures, preferably on compacted soils with waterlogging.



  • Remove the algae coating by scarifying and raking.
  • Apply potash fertilizer, for example FloraSelf Select autumn lawn fertilizer.
  • Improve soil structure with soil activators, compost and soil.
  • Make the soil more permeable with stronger compaction. You can do this with even sanding.


How do I avoid snow mold?

Description: A wet rot disease of the turf; initially small, circular spots that can grow up to 30 cm in diameter. The grasses turn brown, mushy and die. A pink and white mycelium is partially visible on the outside.

Occurrence: Snow mold occurs in itself (in the dead grass, as a mycelium or conidia) and only becomes a problem if several factors that promote the infestation interact:


  • Longer covering of the lawn with snow and leaves
  • Waterlogging and dense lawn felt
  • Temperature fluctuations, especially changing temperatures around freezing point
  • Milder winters (no hibernation, which protects against infestation)
  • Excessive nitrogen supply and liming before winter


Control: Direct control is not possible since the use of fungicides on lawns in home and allotment gardens is prohibited. However, the stains usually disappear at warmer temperatures, in any case you should rake infected areas immediately. You can take a number of preventive measures:


  • For example, improve soil ventilation by scarifying in spring and late summer. Remove fallen leaves directly from the lawn.
  • Increase permeability, especially on loamy soils, by sprinkling lawn sand after scarifying. You should drain heavily compacted soils.
  • Reduce the risk of infection: in autumn only use potash fertilizers and avoid liming (the pH should not be above 6.5). In windless, shady areas, sow only shady lawns or do without lawns altogether.

How do I avoid snow mold?

Basic renovation for the lawn

If the entire lawn is in poor condition, you have to go through the complete lawn care program.

That’s how it’s done:


  • Mowing : as short as possible, i.e. in the lowest cutting height setting.
  • Scarifying : Ideally several times in the transverse and longitudinal directions. The more thorough, the better. This is the only way for the lawn seed to have direct ground contact everywhere. Adjust the scarifying depth to the height of the matted layer. Remove the lawn felt completely.
  • Seed and fertilizer deploy
  • Spread the peat layer : Cover the redeveloped area with a thin layer of peat.
  • Watering : The lawn must not dry out for the first three weeks. A daily irrigation – and the lawn will soon be like new again!


Tip: special reseeding lawn helps with bald spots

Bald spots in the lawn do not have to be! Always use special lawn reseeding for gaps in the lawn. They germinate quickly and are competitive. Reseeding grass forms dense clumps. Some mixtures are available in a package with soil and fertilizers.

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